Labor of Love
Bessie Nestoras -- Gifts and Dec, 6/17/2011 6:23:33 AM
Mermaid necklace is 14-kt. gold filled and features aqua chalcedony, green amethyst and prehnite. $90. Egyptian earrings are also 14-kt. gold filled with a pink amethyst. $95. Lotus Jewelry Studio. 410.814.9833. www.lotusjewelrystudio.com
As jewelry has become a staple category in independent gift stores, it's time for proprietors to look at their jewelry selection and ask themselves "is this selection strong enough?"
It's easy to pick up a few pieces here and there, place them on a jewelry tree and hope they sell. But to really stand out in this category, a store owner needs to walk the show floors - especially the handmade sections.
The handcraft ed jewelry found at the various gift shows is nothing to sneeze at. These pieces are unique and behind them is a lot of talent and TLC.
You may wonder: "Why should you pay more for something handmade when you can get something similar at a lower price that also claims to be handmade?" What's the difference?
The Difference Between Handmade and Handmade 
Each hexagon in the Hexagon necklace is a copper shape that is traditionally used for enameling. Fabric is fused to each shape and trimmed by hand. $48. Webbedware. 212.731.9303. www.webbedware.etsy.com
This is where you have to do your research. "Handmade is really a selling point, especially if made in the U.S.A.," said Erik Legenhausen, co-owner and co-designer, with his wife Courtney, of Lotus Jewelry Studio, whose jewelry line is designed and created in Timonium, MD.
Many vendors will say their product is handmade, but it may be hand-assembled somewhere else. They will go to Turkey, Thailand and Mexico, for example, and work with casting factories there. The artist will, of course, have designed the piece as well as visited the casting factory and shown the workers the sketches, but may not have had any contact with the jewelry beyond that.
The pieces are still handmade, so why all the fuss? Technically, yes, pieces that are made by hand are handmade. "What I see so much of out and about is jewelry that is made by assemblage. That is assemblage art and should be in an entirely different category than jewelry that is made with metalsmithing techniques," explained Amber Mahler, owner and designer of Mani Designs. 
Aquamarine Waterfall filigree double wrap necklace features kiwi jasper, sage aqua and green mystic topaz on oxidized sterling silver filigree chain. $288. Avindy. 404.355.1165. www.avindy.com
While she does admit that casting is not technically smithing either, she says that she does her fair share of smithing before the piece becomes wearable and ready to sell. "I design, sprue and hand-finish all the work, and I work with a local goldsmith as well as a wonderful casting company to get the castings. I think it makes a difference that I hand-finish every piece, that I have touched and tried on each piece. There is just a level of care that the maker gives that is usually unsurpassed," Mahler said.
"It's a labor of love," said Lauren Roskoph, co-owner and co-designer, with Gracia Mahan, of Lauren & Gracia Jewelry, who make everything in their Menlo Park, CA, studio. It's just the two artists and one assistant.
The difference between a handcraft ed piece and one that is mass produced is easier to spot than you might think. "Someone understands, if they pick up our jewelry and feel the heft of the piece, and see the design, the texture, [they see the difference]," continued Roskoph.
Small Drops earrings are hand-cast in Maine and feature a nautical chart or map image of choice. Hand-cut and handplaced. .925 sterling silver. About $150. CHART Metalworks. 207.221.6807. www.chartmetalworks.com
Granted, creating jewelry by hand is an expensive way to create it, and with material prices going up, it is getting more expensive, but for one who understands what goes into creating a piece, the price tag will not matter. "Our rep went to a store in Boston and she was fixing the displays; a customer came in and bought the necklace [she was wearing] right off of her. [The customer] knew what it means to buy a handmade piece," related Lauren Roskoph. The store was at first afraid to take the risk, but aft er seeing the customer's reaction, took on the line.
Education Is Key
The more you know about what goes into creating a piece of jewelry, the more your customers will be willing to open up their wallets. "There are so many similar products in the market that a story behind it helps in the process," said Legenhausen.
Mini Moons necklace is hand carved sterling silver with hand-knotted leather. $717 Lauren Gracia Jewerly. 650.799.1923. www.laurengraciajewelry.com
Be sure to educate your customers and help them understand why a handmade piece of jewelry is truly unique and special - and why some handcraft ed pieces cost more than others. It's easier on the wallet to buy something at a lower price point, but something that was actually made by the artist and/or their craftspeople will be a unique and special piece that they will have forever.
"I believe there is value in knowing that the artist had his hand on and created that piece that is really not like any other in the world," said Charlott e Leavitt , owner and designer of CHART Metalworks.
Orbit belt is handmade from recycled materials. All materials are recyclable. $64 with strap; $52 for buckle alone. 8 Petals. 866.526.7226. www.8petals.com
"I certainly have a hard time buying a gift for an acquaintance that is over $50, even $20. But when I am shopping for myself and see something that I love, [something] that is so unique and wonderful and not made in China, that tells a story that I believe in, I buy it," said Mahler.
Keeping It Local
Buying a handcraft ed piece of jewelry does not only carry the plus that it was made by an artist; it also helps support the economy of a local community as well. "We're not a factory pumping out pieces. We're a small local company, a Maine-based couple who goes to work every day with their dog and loves what they do. When goods are bought from us, money is reinvested locally," said Leavitt .
So, for the gift retailer, investing in handcraft ed jewelry lines presents a winning combination: the ability to offer customers unique items while supporting other small businesses.
SELLING TIPS
Lauren Roskoph of Lauren Gracia Jewelry off ers three key tips to help educate your customers when selling handcraft ed jewelry:
Vermeil Field Flower posts are cast directly from plants. Vermeil is a solid gold layer over sterling silver. Available in 14-kt. or 18-kt. gold. $170. Mani Designs. 510.332.1649. www.manidesignsjewelry.com
1 Wear the jewelry. Make sure the staff is wearing the jewelry while they are on the sales fl oor. Oft entimes, a customer may not know how to wear a piece, but if someone is wearing it, the consumer will see what it looks like on.
2 Sell the story. Make sure you give the story behind the jewelry. Tell your customer about the designer, who they are, and how and where they work. You need to sell the story, not just the jewelry.
3 Host a trunk show. Bring the artist to your store. This way the customers can meet the talent behind the collection. The artist can explain the design process and show the customer the various ways they can wear the jewelry, which will help boost sales. With a trunk show, a customer is sure to bring a friend, thus potentially increasing your sales for the day.
Designers make it, but you choose it. Made It! is a new company that made its debut at the Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market last winter. The idea behind the company is to help jewelry makers by giving them a way to sell their pieces nationally. The twist is that the consumer gets to choose which designer's jewelry will be produced.
Summer Rope necklace features a gold tone chain with blue, green and white beds. $40. Made It! 212.239.3892. www.seewhomadeit.com
The company showcases the designers' work and, through a voting system fueled by social media and national publicity campaigns, the public casts its vote for its favorite.
The top three are the ones that are chosen to be produced, and right now, there are three jewelry makers whose pieces are available for sale. The next vote is set for June, when six more artists will be profiled on the company's website (www.seewhomadeit.com).
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