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What's Inside Counts

GDA Staff -- Gifts and Dec, 11/1/2011 2:00:00 AM

WHAT'S NOT IN PERSONAL PRODUCTS IS AS IMPORTANT AS WHAT IS IN THEM," SAYS MICHAEL DELUCA, PRESIDENT OF THE NAKED BEE. HE'S RIGHT ON THE MONEY: WHEN IT COMES TO MARKETING BATH AND BODY PRODUCTS, ONE KEY SELLING TOOL IS OFTEN A LIST OF NEGATIVES.

The ‘No' List
What's on the "No" list varies from vendor to vendor, but ingredients noted for their absence from the products on these pages include parabens, sulfates, phthalates, propylene glycol, dyes, fragrance, mineral oil, silicone, petrochemicals, genetically modified organisms, oxybenzone, octinoxate, zinc oxide, titanium, benzyl peroxide, alcohol and dimethicone.
Some of these are accepted by scientists as toxins, though debate continues as to how much is too much. Others, like mineral oil and silicone, are still contested, with natural proponents claiming they clog skin and others saying the layer they create is protective. Still others, such as vegan and cruelty free, represent an ethical stance rather than health concerns.

Bubble Elixir is over 98% natural and vegan. $28. Barr Co. 314.961.1990. www.khalldesigns.com
	USDA certified organic lip balm, body cream and travel tin candle. $50. Hollybeth's Natural Luxury. 404.549.7403. www.hollybeth.net
Fluffy Bunny Shea Butter Cream is 90% natural, vegan and gluten free. Farm House Fresh. 888.773.9626. www. FarmHouseFresh-Goods.com
	Lip balm is made with organic soy, olive oil and beeswax. The Naked Bee 888.871.1811. www.nakedbee.com
Anti-aging skincare is gluten-free. Sophyto. 877.315.9221. www.sophyto.com

But while many consumers will come in with a list of their own, others are not so sure why these negatives are, well, negative. "Many consumers are still newbies at naturals and it's always a good idea to educate," says Kim Grustas, founder/owner of Good For You Girls LLC.
Retailers don't need to memorize the whole ingredient list, but if you go deep in a few personal care lines, research why each "no" is something you don't want, and what's good about what the product uses instead.

Got Gluten?
We're used to trends in new ingredients making their way from the grocery to the medicine cabinet, such as antioxidant fruits like acai. But now the converse is happening too: ingredients to avoid are making their way from the supermarket into personal care as well. Many people these days are avoiding gluten in food because they have been diagnosed with celiac disease or gluten intolerance, or just feel bett er when they omit gluten from their diet. Now bath and body products are beginning to be labeled gluten free as well. But it's not just marketing. According to Alfred Hopton, spokesman for Sophyto:
      • Gluten-containing products applied to the mouth can easily be transported to the small intestine
     • Some celiacs cannot tolerate topical application of gluten on any part of their body and experience itching, redness, rashes and dryness
     • Gluten can be absorbed into the bloodstream wherever the skin's acid mantle is disturbed or through cuts, burns and wounds.
     • Acne, rosacea, dermatitis, psoriasis, eczema, and premature aging can be exacerbated by gluten.

Trading Off
Unfortunately, organic and natural ingredients do come with costs. "Natural products do have a shorter shelf life and ingredients are more expensive," admits Grustas, though she says they're worth it. But those are not the only costs - sometimes they're also less effective.

	Blemish Clearing Mask includes organic hydroxy-fruit acids, clay and bamboo. $24. Juice Beauty. 415.457.4600. www.juicebeauty.com
Cucumber extract hydrates. Plum Island Soap Co. 978.273.8466. www.plumislandwholesale.com
	Body Wash and Shimmer are made with organic olive oils and extracts. Good For You Girls LLC. 860.489.9912. www.goodforyougirls.com
Wildly Natural collection is made from natural materials. $3.25-$6. Mad Gabs. 800.547.5823. www.madgabs.com

"We are told time and again [...] that while the organic lines meet moral criteria, they often do not perform as well, particularly when combined with other products. [...] We try to strike a balance between the two worlds," says Delia McLinden, sales director of Farm House Fresh. "Each year, we sit down with our chemists and review the products to see if any new ingredients are on the market to replace those seen as the most highly debated in the natural marketplace." Ask vendors if they have studies of effectiveness; if not, get a sample and try before you buy.

When Nature Hurts
Even the most effective natural product isn't good for everybody. "Natural products can be a double-edged sword because people are generally allergic to things in nature. So we always recommend people test the product on their wrist or jawline first," says McLinden.
Retailers should be cautious about sampling products with allergens in them, since some people might react even to the fragrance in the air.

A Natural Choice
Don't let fear of allergies talk you out of carrying natural and organic products. Even these days, allergic reactions are not common. "In the three years we have been in business there have been only two such reactions," says Grustas.
That level of risk is worth taking, particularly for a category that's growing even in this economy. "Natural products have seen such an increase in popularity in the past 10 years," says McLinden. "People are willing to pay more attention (and more money for that matter) as to what they are putting on their skin or using in their home."

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