Food and the Comfort Factor

Comfort foods have been in the news a lot lately. The terrorist attacks and their aftermath jolted many Americans into believing that life was for living now. While they may or may not be heeding that advice, they are certainly eating for now. Market research company ACNielson says that sales of frozen pizzas, chips, dips, and ice creams were up between 7 and 24 percent last year. Meanwhile, television's Food Network is providing viewers with gourmet versions of culinary classics like meatloaf, while officials at Weight Watchers report that an unusually high number of members recently gained weight.

As restaurants scramble to replace caviar- and truffle-adorned entrees with chicken pot pie and tomato soup, the food pages of newspapers across the country offer recipes for such staples as beef stew and bread pudding. While the appeal for these foods may reflect the season — mammals prepare for the cold months by gorging on high-calorie foods — there are also other reasons.

Retailer Bettie Edwards of The Little House in Vashon, Washington, says, "A comfort food is not just about tasting good, it's about what it triggers in you. People relate the food to a past happy experience. It's something grandmother made for them, or that they first tried on a special trip."

The sense of sharing with others also comes into play with comfort foods. "The communal table is really just a metaphor for civilization," states food writer Marion Cunningham. "You sit at the table, looking at each other, and your defenses drop. The table tells you who you are and where you are, and without those things, you're a loner. The tribe is as important today as in primal days."

The trend to comfort food is a trend the specialty retailer can tap into. "When customers want to spend wisely, they're drawn to the gourmet category's practicality," says Sonja Fraze, apparel and accessory manager of Harpies' Bazaar in Mankato, Minnesota. "People are going to use the food product they're given. It's more tangible than a gift certificate, and it's not just something that's going to sit on a shelf." One tack that Harpies' Bazaar takes is to offer gourmet foods that augment old favorites, such as "a cranberry horseradish dip you can serve with turkey or ham," says Fraze. "It's a little different, but you're not taking away from the traditional meal." Although Harpies' Bazaar has carried gourmet foods for only a year, the category has done so well they are expanding it at the expense of some stationery product.

Lorna Goebel, general manager of Paul's Pantry in Carefree, Arizona, notes that there are two categories of comfort foods. "There's the ready-to-open-and-eat package, be it cheese straws, salsas, or nuts. And then you've got the other spectrum for the take-home-and-start-from-scratch chef." The latter can be a great family activity. Other comfort categories worth investigating include child-related foods or food kits, dipping oils, mustards, salsas, dessert toppings, mixes for soups and desserts, and tea.

When nearby grocery stores began selling the gourmet lines she had been carrying, Bettie Edwards one-upped the competition in Vashon. She focused on just one product: chocolate. Upscale offerings displayed on cake pedestals boosted her holiday sales.

Of course, gourmet foods are often regionally focused, such as Southwest barbecue sauce, New England cranberry products, or Midwest cheese creations. But regardless of your selections, they should be just one piece of a larger picture. Soft lights, lush textures, and home items such as vases, candlesticks, and frames can unite into a homey, nurturing atmosphere. Cross-merchandising is a given. There is a wide range of products, including bar and wine accessories, cookbooks, chef gadgets, even personal care items that are a perfect fit. One simple example: Bettie Edwards reports excellent sales of cookie cutters over the holidays.

Finally, play up the idea of comfort in your store promotions. Sally Fegley of Tom & Sally's Homemade Chocolates in Brattleboro, Vermont, says, "People were coming in for chocolates just to get a little lift. So we ran ads that said, 'Feel good this holiday season, and help your loved ones feel good, too, with some of our award-winning chocolates.' "

How long will our love affair with comfort foods last? Susan Corwin, vice president and show manager of George Little Management's Gourmet Products Show, comments: "We have probably seen the last of the excess of the 1990s. This is a return to normalcy. I don't think it's a trend, I think it's a lifestyle."