Perfect Scents

The concept of aromatherapy has been around, literally, for ages. The ancient Egyptians prized essential oils, equating their value with gold. A papyrus manuscript from 2800 BC lists myrtle, frankincense, and myrrh as treatments for hay fever. There are nearly 200 references to oils in the Bible.

Aromatherapy entered the modern age in 1928, when French chemist Rene-Maurice Gattefosse suffered a third-degree burn, and, believing that a vat of lavender oil was water, immersed his arm in it. When he realized that it relieved the burning sensation, an age-old concept was rediscovered.

"Aromatherapy is based on folkloric information," explains Virginia Bonofiglio, a professor in the Fashion Institute of Technology's fragrance and cosmetic marketing program, as well as director of the fragrance division at Technology, Flavors & Fragrances of Amityville, New York, which develops scents and flavors for manufacturers. "Each culture has its own aromatherapy customs, depending on what kinds of plants grow where the culture developed."

Today, aromatherapy is big business. According to the business information firm Data Monitor, sales of aromatherapy products in 2002 were $470 million. The aromatherapy market is also buoyed by consumer receptivity. Scented toys can calm or enhance learning, for example, and spa experiences are offered everywhere from business meetings to dentist's chairs.

"When Procter & Gamble puts out a product called Om, you know it's gone mainstream," says Bonofiglio.

The medical possibilities of aromatherapy are also in the news. In the U.K., midwives use mandarin to uplift the spirits of women during childbirth, and recent research has suggested that aromatherapy may aid patients suffering from dementia. Meanwhile, developing technology allows cell phones to emit a fragrance when a call comes in, and a German pharmaceutical company has developed a process by which textiles are infused with natural essences.

All this hoopla has created a confusing array of personal care product, with some items driven by style, others by substance. By approaching aromatherapy from a no-nonsense, well informed stance, you can choose the products that are best suited to your consumer base. And, more importantly, you can understand how to sell those products effectively.

According to Virginia Bonofiglio, it's important to differentiate between the clinical and commercial uses of aromatherapy, as well as between aromatherapy and aromachology. Medical and nursing aromatherapy techniques focus on stress or pain management, and are usually used in conjunction with other treatments. Commercial aromatherapy, on the other hand, includes everything from aromatic body lotions to environmental fragrancing, à la room sprays.

"You can certainly make yourself feel a little better. A body wash with a little mint will make you feel livelier and happier. But to really treat yourself with aromatherapy, it has to be done by someone who's trained in it," says Bonofiglio.

There's also a critical difference between aromatherapy and aromachology. Aromatherapy utilizes a plant's essential oils, which are extracted through distillation or pressing. Some dedicated enthusiasts will mix essential oils with carrier oils for massage, use in aroma lamps, inhalation, compresses, baths, or even drinkable concoctions. But the majority of consumers are more comfortable with scented products such as candles and personal care items. Aromatherapy scents fall into several categories, including floral, spicy, wood and herb, and citrus.

Aromachology, which was developed in 1982, is more science-driven. "It's based on collecting information under controlled conditions, and finding out what effect a scent is having on a mood," Bonofiglio remarks, noting that aromachology deals more with psychology than physiological affects.

While aromatherapy is based on natural essences, aromachology products can feature synthetic fragrances. If natural essential oils can be likened to diamonds, synthetic fragrances are cubic zirconia. To distinguish between them, the National Association for Holistic Aromatherapy has been working to secure a regulatory True Aromatherapy Products (TAP) seal that will help consumers differentiate between natural and synthetic. The regulations are still in development.

When shopping a line, retailers should approach product as if they were a consumer. Remember that there's a lot of competing product even on drugstore shelves, so your offering needs to stand out. Will the look of its packaging appeal to your customers? Does the smell seem fresh or synthetic? If it's a lotion, what is the "slip" of the product, that is, how quickly does it absorb into the skin?

Always check the ingredients. "See if it says fragrance or essential oil," Bonofiglio recommends. That will tell you whether the product is aromatherapy- or aromachology-based. And be sure to read all brochures and materials, check the shelf life, and inquire about tester programs.

You must also have an idea about what your customer base is willing to buy. Some aromatherapy product may be too esoteric for your audience. "Your average homeowner doesn't buy incense," notes Bonofiglio. "If the retailer is up in Vermont and everyone is an ex-hippie, then they can go with the incense. But if they're in Stamford, Connecticut, they're better off to stick with personal care products."

The savvy retailer also knows about the added benefit of carrying scented merchandise. It's called sensory marketing, and it's as important a selling technique as good lighting or background music. Of course, make sure that the scent your store emanates persuades customers to linger longer, and doesn't drive them outdoors gasping for fresh air.

Few gift products have stood the test of time as aromatherapy has. If you choose the right mix of products and scents, it will probably last the lifetime of your store as well.