What's Your Bag, Baby

Bags … totes, clutches, purses, backpacks, carryalls, and overnighters. While it's long been said that a woman can never have too many shoes, these days it seems that women are trading in their shoe fetish for all types of handbags. Indeed, in fashion trend circles, the handbag is being touted as the "new shoe." A woman, the fashionistas say, simply can't have too many. But why is that and what does it mean for the gift retailer?

One reason is that a bag is an economical way to freshen up a wardrobe. "A new purse is less of an investment than a new suit," notes Veronique Poudrier, a designer for Vera Bradley Inc., a Fort Wayne, Indiana-based manufacturer known for its quilted cotton handbags, luggage, and accessories. "It is a way to express yourself and your sense of fashion — to make a statement with a utilitarian item."

"We're giving gift stores something more, something different, to sell," says Nanci Feldman of J. P. Ourse et Cie, New York and Miami manufacturer of leather handbags and accessories. "The gift retailer is looking for something new to add to their product mix, and their customer is looking for something more personal to buy. A handbag is a very personal, yet useful, gift."

While some companies, such as Vera Bradley, have been gift industry staples for years, many other smaller designers and manufacturers have been making a strong showing at recent markets. Large or small, these designers have shown that they can present product lines that are a distinct departure from mass market offerings, and can deliver a high level of personal service to gift retailers and their customers at the same time.

Purse and bag designs tend to follow the larger pattern of ready-to-wear fashions, from which several general design directions are currently emerging. "We're seeing a lot of feminine detailing, like ruffles, pleats, and soft shapes," says Poudrier. "We're also seeing hardware details, such as grommets, buckles, and metal feet; elements that we [Vera Bradley Inc.] have incorporated into our microfiber line. And frame bags are making a comeback."

Besides pleats and ruffles, feminine detailing can be seen in other embellishments, often with a couture feel: A flower applied like a corsage, a tailored bow, or a feather boa element give the bags an intriguing hint of the runway. Handcraftmanship detailing, such as whip stitching, also adds a chic feminine air to a bag line.

The cargo and military utility look — strong in casual wear — is another popular design direction, according to Magan Sellnow of Latico NJ USA. Capitalizing on the trend, the Denville, New Jersey-based company has introduced a line of leather bags with earth tones, military-style hardware, and cargo pockets as the key elements.

On the other hand, bright, vibrant colors continue to thrive on the fashion runways and carry over into bag fashions. Hot hues include red, orange, and pink. And bright colors aren't just for fabric bags — they smarten up leathers and plastics as well. While some manufacturers use vivid colors to create a retro look of the 1950s and '60s, others draw on the hotness of the Latin/Cuban influences. Still others just play up the bright, cheerful angle, adding a touch of color to the power suit or the little black dress.

Still other bag designers take inspiration from menswear, using materials such as gray flannel for chic yet conservative bags that are standouts for the working woman.

These days, with women carrying more personal accessories such as PDAs and cell phones, finding a way to organize is more important than ever to them. Fashionable utility is one of the key qualities that today's busy consumer is looking for in a bag.

"Our bigger bags are selling very strongly right now because they are multi-purpose," notes Sandra Leal, a Woodland, California, handbag designer and manufacturer. "They're chic, stylish, and can be used in many ways. We're even seeing new moms use our big bags as their diaper bags/baby gear totes."

Juliann Cantrell, owner of Jules and Company, a Houston manufacturer of fabric totes and bags, concurs. "Our main customer is a mom who works, and who needs a bag that can go everywhere and be used for everything. But she still wants to show that she has style."

When it comes to bags, it's not a one-size-fits-all world. Like the women who carry them, bags come in many shapes and sizes. And while large bags and totes are selling very well, there's also a strong demand for smaller bags.

Popular especially among the younger crowd, tiny bags that are carried under the arm offer a different kind of utility — and a different kind of style. The baguette, a tube-like bag longer than it is tall, is currently a strong seller; as is the hobo style bag, both in its traditional larger size and a smaller, sleeker model. And of course, the backpack is a staple of the category. These days, however, the backpack is being interpreted in ways that present a softer, more feminine look. Some have been streamlined to eliminate elements of rugged utility, while others maintain their ruggedness, but have been modified for a more fashion-forward look.

Another trend emerging among career women is the two-bag organizational scheme. Busy women have to carry a lot of "stuff." What with dress shoes, papers, laptop, water bottle, and other "necessities," women need plenty of carrying space to get them through the day. Fortunately for retailers, this means the potential for multiple sales, because busy women still want to present a coordinated look. The two-bag trend offers them a larger and a smaller bag for their different needs. They can carry the big bag or tote for all their necessities, and the smaller coordinating purse for going out to lunch or even dinner.

Customization and personalization are also strong trends in the marketing of gift handbags. Initials and monograms, which began showing up on the 2003 spring and summer bag lines, continue to draw consumer interest. The initial monogram has the advantage of appealing to different generations for different reasons: The retro feel of the '50s and early '60s appeals to mature customers, and can also be viewed as a fresh new concept for the younger customer.

And what started as a single initial may be moving to the next level, Sandra Leal observes. "Customers are really making the bags their own. We're now doing words and full names for them. That makes these bags a very special type of gift, because they are so unique." In addition, many of the bag lines offer an opportunity for multiple add-on sales, with coordinated accessories such as jewelry rolls, wallets, cosmetic cases, and soft carry-ons.

Can selling bags be your bag? Why not? What was once the purview of department and chain stores is taking its rightful place in the gift arena. With so many colorful, fun, and fashionable collections to choose from, the savvy gift retailer can capitalize on the bag market to brighten up their merchandise mix while helping boost their bottom line.