Baubles, Bangles & Beads

It may be July, but the department stores are already in full autumn colorways as fall fashions hit the racks. For the gift retailer, this is the time to shop for those all-important extras — especially jewelry — that give an outfit a lift and set registers ringing in the third and fourth quarters.

Accessories, especially jewelry, “add punch to dress up a wardrobe,” notes earring designer Creedance Gose of Piccadilly Press in Santa Monica.

“Accessories change a look, add sparkle and romance to an outfit,” says designer Angela Moore, whose business is based in Middletown, Rhode Island. “You invest in a great basic outfit; when you change the jewelry, you change the look.”

And jewelry, of course, is perfect both for self-purchasing and gifting.

Color, as you may have noticed, is one of the driving forces in both fashion and decor. For the fall season, spring's clear, bright tones (turquoise, rosy pink, coral, and Shrek yellow-green) deepen into luminous jewel tones such as rich teal, denim blue, berry red, burnt orange, and mossy, olive green.

In Pantone's “Fashion Color Report” for fall 2005, Leatrice Eiseman observes: “Blue Turquoise, spring's dominant color, has matured into Moroccan Blue — a deep, vibrant teal. Rich browns are also extremely important for fall '05, from spicy shades like Glazed Ginger to darker chocolates.”

But it's the color combinations Eiseman finds “most directional.” She cites some examples: Pantone's Glazed Ginger and Moroccan Blue presented with the accent of Moss (a spicy cinnamon brown and deep teal with a martini olive); and Pantone's grouping of Rattan, Gloxinia, and American Beauty (a soft, natural brownish yellow, rich plum, and carnelian red). (Editor's note: Pantone's Fashion Trend report is at www.Pantone.com)

Designer Moore agrees that browns and earth tones such as sienna and chocolate will continue into fall, along with rich spice colors. Nancy Dunitz, of Dunitz & Co., San Francisco, adds, “I see it freshened up with additional copper, ginger, wine, and peridot tones.”

Also weighing in on the seasonal color scale are deep purples, such as amethyst and plum, and on the neutral side, rich grays ranging from slate to fog. All of these rich colors are being used alone or in creative combinations by jewelry designers eager to complement and update fashion ensembles. Some designs even tie in spring fashion colors to give the wearer more options during seasonal transition.

Besides color, other key elements that will figure prominently this season are shimmer, light reflection, and luster. “Shimmer adds brightness and glow to the face,” notes Moore. “It's an embellishment that gives the illusion of color.”

Shimmer and sparkle help give fashion jewelry a day-into-evening look. This is a great selling point for retailers, because customers are looking for versatility in what they buy. Today's business woman needs smart pieces that go from the boardroom to the cocktail party, and travelers need items that match both casual and evening dress.

Light reflection, whether it is off the facets of stones or from the shine of metallics or the glow of pearls, is what brings out the sparkle and brightness in the jewelry, the outfit, and the person wearing it.

When it comes to luster, it's the pearl and pearl-like finishes that immediately come to mind. “I'm banking on pearls through fall 2005,” says Nancy Dunitz. “And, based on their strength this year, I believe there will be strength in them in the gift market in 2006. My company is showing lots of glass pearls mixed with seed beads, crystals, and semi-precious stones for fall 2005. We've even added deep pearl colors in black, midnight blue, wine, gunmetal, and dark brown!”

But pearls aren't alone in making a statement with luster and gleam. Silver and gold are also strong right now, especially when combined. Metals or metallic elements tend to provide relief from surrounding color, but their gleam also enhances and reflects light off the colors around them.

Jewelry is a very personal purchase, and one of the key things customers are looking for is an element of individuality, according to Angela Moore. “Savvy retailers will avail themselves of product that has a handcrafted quality or a touch of the designer in it.”

Whether it's hand-painted bead necklaces, hand-beaded bracelets, or dangling designer earrings, colorful jewelry pieces that are distinct from big box product will set the specialty retailer apart, appealing to customers looking for something unique. And stocking such pieces will keep them coming back for more.

Like the seasons, colors evolve and change. Fall sales will brighten this year with fashion jewelry in unique colors and styles. And looking ahead, Nancy Dunitz forecasts more of the same, with even deeper, richer colors hitting the markets in the spring.